Christmas in Pennsylvania

We returned late last night after spending a snowy Christmas with my family in West Chester, Pennsylvania!
We left around 3:30 on Thursday and took a new route north, heading up along Highway 29 through North Carolina and Virginia, then continuing north on Highway 15 through northern Virginia and 30 east through Pennsylvania.  We spent Thursday night in Leesburg, Virginia, which we both loved!  Loudoun County, where Leesburg is located, is a bucolic haven of gently rolling farmland and Leesburg has a a historic 17th-century downtown area.  We also visited the premium outlets in Leesburg and did a little pre-Christmas damage. :)
I have been visiting my grandparents, aunt & uncle, and cousins in West Chester since they moved there in the late 80s and Roberto has been there several times for work and for family functions with me.  The Brandywine Valley area of the country was also settled in the 1800s, and there are plenty of historic landmarks to visit there.  I love all of the old stone structures and rolling countryside, although there are a lot more people there now than there were when my family first moved there.  The family has expanded in recent years, too, with my cousins' spouses and four great-granddaughters!  It was great to see everyone.  We did have to cut our trip a little short due to the enormous blizzard that worked its way up the East Coast yesterday.  We headed home early to beat the storm - and on our way back we missed it entirely thanks to our more western route - only to find the most snow we had seen when we returned to Greensboro!  Probably about 6 inches in places.
From now on, that's the route we'll take up to PA.  There were a lot of beautiful things to see along the way.  I already mentioned Leesburg, but we also drove straight through Amish Country and were amazed by the Amish riding in horse-drawn carriages along the roads.  We also stopped at the Bavarian Chef - just north of Charlottesville, VA - which I have ALWAYS wondered about when we drive past.  This authentic German restaurant serves some of the best Bavarian-style food in the northern VA/DC area, and we LOVED it!  We enjoyed roasted red pepper soup with lump crabmeat, an appetizer of three different kinds of wurst on top of sauerkraut and mashed potatoes, and jaeger schnitzel as a main dish.
It was a memorable Christmas, over too soon as usual, but it makes it even more special when we get to visit everyone again. 

Thanksgiving in Miami

Where I grew up on eastern Long Island, New York, there was a chill in the air around Thanksgiving.  We may even have gotten some snow by this time!  Not in Miami.

Roberto and I arrived here on Thanksgiving day to temperatures in the high 80's, bright blue skies, and perfect beach weather!  We ate our Thanksgiving dinner al fresco with the family... American-style turkey, stuffing, pumpkin pie, sweet potato casserole with marshmallows... mmm.  We might be sitting underneath palm trees, but there is no mistaking those classic Thanksgiving dishes.

Roberto, Alberto and I got to see Alejandro's new place in Brickell... it is beautiful!  Floor-to-ceiling windows and a view of the water.  Alex cooked us a delicious dinner on Friday night: stone crabs, pan-seared tuna tataki, escargot, and racks of lamb with asparagus.  I loved everything, but that was my first taste of stone crabs and it won't be my last.

We spent most of Saturday at Miami Beach with Abi's friends Alejandro and Missy.  It was a gorgeous day, a little overcast so the sun wasn't overbearing, but perfect beach weather.  Then after an afternoon of sun and sand we visited La Sandwicherie, just off the beach.  I had an amazing prosciutto and fresh mozzarella sandwich with cornichons on the side.

This is beginning to sound more like a food blog than a travel blog, but hey, we ate well in Miami!  (Always do!) On Sunday we visited Los Perros with Dulma for traditional Colombian fare: I had a sweet cheese arrepa with jugo de mora (blackberry juice, which I fell in love with in Costa Rica) and a delicious mixed appetizer made up of french fries, hard boiled quail eggs, fried potatoes, and pork belly. 

In between eating, Maria Elena, Alberto Francisco and I explored the beautiful, historic Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables while the boys played golf there.  The four-star resort dates from 1926 and boasts impeccably-maintained grounds, an 18-hole Donald Ross-designed golf course, an open-air courtyard and fountain, and a 23,000 square foot pool.  The hotel's centerpiece is its 93-foot tower, which is modeled after the Giralda Tower in Seville, Spain.  For all of the hotel's beauty, my favorite things about it were the two giant bird cages in the lobby, filled with rainbow-colored finches.  We had mojitos poolside while we waited for the boys to finish playing golf, under palm fronds and stars. 

To me, Miami is a magical place with a very exotic feel to it.  I always hate to leave, but it makes it that much more exciting each time we get to go back.

Baltimore and Eastern Long Island

Just back from a long weekend jaunt to Baltimore and Long Island's East End!

I spent Thursday and Friday at the International Economic Development Council's Marketing Training conference at the Baltimore Sheraton City Center... a really informative, helpful event!  I also really enjoy spending time in Baltimore.  This was my second time visiting, the first time was two Christmases ago when Roberto and I stopped there for about an hour on the drive up to Pennsylvania.  Needless to say, there was a lot more action around the Inner Harbor this time around than there was on Christmas Eve 2008!  People were walking everywhere, the shops were full, and I really got the full effect of this gritty, historic city.  Baltimore was founded in 1729 and its Inner Harbor was once the second leading entry point for immigrants to the United States (after Ellis Island).  This was once a major manufacturing center, and although its economy is now geared more toward the service industry I could still feel its working class roots as I walked through the crowded streets.  I'm not sure everyone would agree, but it reminded me somewhat of a smaller New York.  Certain neighborhoods in New York.

After the conference, I made the easy flight up to Long Island's MacArthur Airport to spend the weekend with my parents.  Although it was chilly (the high on Saturday was 45-degrees and windy, when I'm used to the 70's in NC at this time of year), it was a perfect weekend to visit, I just missed the pumpkin picker traffic!  However, the winery tours are still in full swing.  I don't think there is ever a time of year anymore that there isn't traffic on Long Island, except maybe mid-winter!

We went for a walk along the dunes through my parents' neighborhood and the next neighborhood over.  I always forget how gorgeous Eastern Long Island is and it takes my breath away when I go back to visit. 

All in all, it was a relaxing weekend!  Lots of time spent reading by the fire with my little Bean curled up nearby (or walking around crying loudly... she is 16 years old and definitely in her twilight years, unfortunately).  Over too soon, but it was great to see my parents and Bean.

Charleston by Horse and Carriage

Although we originally intended to take a high-speed boat ride through Charleston's harbor yesterday, we were so charmed by the dozens of horse-and-carriages traversing the historic downtown area that we decided to do that instead.  Normally I'm not one to fall for the tourist-trap attractions - I have never been on a gondola in Venice, spent New Year's Eve in Times Square, or visited Las Vegas by choice - but this was really fun!  Our tour guide and our draft horse, Benjamin, took us around all of the old churches in town - including the beautiful Catholic cathedral - and through all of the narrow historic streets. 

We just wandered for the rest of the day, shopping at the market, re-tracing our carriage ride around King and Queen Streets, and picking up a caramel-covered rice krispie treat on-a-stick at Kilwin's to save for dessert.  Dinner was at Hank's Seafood Restaurant... I had an incredible bouillabaisse.  I can't believe I didn't have one of these when we were near Marseille in May, that's where bouillabaisse originated!

 It's good to know that Charleston is only about a 5 hour drive away... we'll be back! 

Charleston, SC: Historic and Hip!

Homes along the Battery

 Roberto and I arrived in Charleston, SC last night around 10 p.m. and headed straight to Pearlz Oyster Bar for a late-night snack and a few beers to celebrate our mini-vacation.  At first blush, Charleston is a college town, albeit a historic one, with tons of high-end restaurants and happening little bars peppered around East Bay Street, one of the main thoroughfares.

The albino gator never moved a muscle...

Today we walked across the entire city, and I realized what a truly unique jewel exists just 5 hours south of where we live in Greensboro, NC.  Many of the gorgeous historic homes were built in the mid-1700s and are still kept up to this day, some as bed-and-breakfasts, many as private residences.  As we wove our way on foot through the cobblestone streets and horse-drawn carriages full of tourists, strolling through the Spanish moss-draped live oaks in the park on the Battery and dipping our toes in several of the many fountains we encountered, we slowly fell in love with the rich Southern culture here.  The South Carolina Aquarium was incredible as well... loved the albino alligator!

We finished up our day with a leisurely dinner at Magnolia's... fried chicken livers and two seafood dishes topped off with a scrumptious creme brulee.  My fave!  After walking off our dinner for a couple of blocks we're falling asleep.  Can't wait to see what tomorrow brings here!

Dinner at Magnolia's... yum!

Evening in Raleigh

If we take a weekend trip it's typically to the beach or the mountains, but now that Carlton and Mary (and little Emme) are living in the Raleigh area we have a wonderful excuse for another place to visit! 

Mary, Kelly and I had a fun girls' night out while the boys stayed home with the baby.  We started the night out with tapas and ended up at Hibernian Pub.  Believe it or not, although we live only an hour away this is only the second or third time I've been to downtown Raleigh at night.  Fun town with lots to do, and good friends here now to boot!  We'll be back soon.

El Salvador 2010

We spent last weekend (much too quick!) in San Salvador, El Salvador, for Roberto's cousin Rodrigo's wedding!  What a beautiful country... and pretty much untouched by tourists.

We haven't been back since we visited over the Thanksgiving holiday in 2008... here are some pictures of that trip, at La Libertad beach and Lago de Coatepeque.  La Libertad is a surfer's paradise with laid-back seafood restaurants and very small, idyllic resorts tucked along its main winding street.  Lago de Coatepeque is one of the largest lakes in El Salvador, created by a massive volcanic eruption between 72,000 and 52,000 years ago.  Roberto says this crater lake is so deep that NASA has been unable to find the bottom, even with sonar submarines.  The water was freezing cold and refreshing when we swam in it that November, and the scenery is just breathtaking... imposing green peaks covered in tropical foliage rise around the caldera, and luxury homes are nestled along the lakeside.

Since we only had Monday to Sunday for this trip, much of which was eaten up by travel, we had much less time to explore.  However, we were lucky enough to get to see another of El Salvador's gorgeous beaches, El Sunzal.  Roberto's brother Alejandro's girlfriend, Francesca, has a house there and we spent all day Saturday lounging in the pool, relaxing in hammocks, and stepping right off her property onto an expanse of spectacular, glittering black sand beach.  It's funny how close Sunzal is to La Libertad, but the beaches are completely different.  La Libertad is very rocky.  In both places the undertow is no joke, though.  You have to be very careful even if you're wading close to the shore.  The quick tides and sharp undertow are two factors that aid in the creation of huge waves, though, so surfers love both locations.  I loved Sunzal... we had the privacy of Francesca's backyard under tall coconut palms, but if we peeked over the brick fence, local jewelry makers came walking up to sell their wares, and two guys on horses kept trotting up to see if we wanted to go for a ride.  I bought two bracelets, but didn't go riding this time.

Rodrigo and Patricia's wedding was fantastic... we had a great time!  Salvadorean weddings - at least the two that I've been to - are a good party, with live Latin music and lots of guests.  Roberto loved being able to see everyone he hasn't seen in a long time.  And of course at midnight there was a Carnival celebration with hats, noisemakers, leis, and the traditional tequila truck!!  Carnival is a mainstay at every Salvadoran wedding.  The wedding was at the Hilton Princess in San Salvador, which was convenient, because that is where we stay when we visit.
I'd like to make a conscious effort to visit El Salvador more often.  It's always nice to be surrounded by family and friends in such a lush, beautiful country.

The 50 Most Inspiring Travel Quotes Of All Time

We returned from our European vacation last weekend... back to reality! Our return flight was uneventful, we were sad to lose our sundried tomatoes and cured meats at customs, but otherwise the trip home was smooth.

I just came upon one of the most beautiful collections of quotes I have ever read... makes me want to start planning our next adventure:

The 50 Most Inspiring Travel Quotes Of All Time

Rome, the Eternal City

Rome has never ceased to amaze me. The crumbling, 2000-year-old ruins situated next to modern government buildings, the magnificent fountains, the vibrant nightlife, and the rich and sometimes sordid history of the city make it one of the most unique places I've ever visited.

As I mentioned, we had less than three days to make our way through Rome, so we walked everywhere. We stayed at the Hotel Artorius, which was very well situated close to the Colosseum. Roberto and I have both been inside the massive Colosseum and have strolled the adjacent Roman Forum, so we just appreciated them from the outside during this trip. There seemed to be a lot of reconstructive work being done on both.

Last time I was here I got to see the Trevi Fountain - which I love - and we had to spend some time here during this trip. Legend has it that if you throw one coin over your shoulder it ensures your trip back to Rome, and if you throw two coins you'll marry an Italian. I can't remember what I threw last time, but it must have been only one because Roberto isn't Italian. Maybe Roberto threw two in when he was here in 2005 :). I read in my Lonely Planet guide that approximately 3000 Euros are thrown into the fountain daily. That should pay for some of the city's reconstructive work on the ruins, I'm sure!

I also got to see the Spanish Steps for the first time. With 138 steps leading from the Piazza del Spagna at the base and the Church of Trinita dei Monti at the top, this is the longest and widest staircase in Europe.

Roberto also saw our first celebrity of the trip! As we were walking around the Trastavere neighborhood on Thursday night (5/20) he saw an actor he recognized walk past us. I wasn't paying attention, too bad. However, Roberto doesn't know who the guy is and says he'll point him out the next time he sees him on TV. "I think he's on one of those CSI-type shows," was all I got. "Either that, or one of those hospital shows." Maybe he'll figure it out within the next couple of months.

We also saw the Pantheon. Again, under construction, but we were still able to walk inside. It wasn't what we expected it to be like... it's actually a temple built to honor all of the gods of ancient Rome. I think I was expecting something governmental, but it was more of a religious structure.

We had to wrap the trip up with more shopping, of course! I got some new leather shoes and we bought candy, tea, cured meats, and some of what we hoped would be the same divine sun-dried tomatoes we ate at Villa San Michele.

The Vatican

The last couple of days of our trip were such a whirlwind... Rome is an enormous city with a population of almost 3 million people, and we had less than three full days to explore it!

Since I skipped the Vatican last time I was in Rome in 2001, we had to visit this time around. Its museums and gardens are very elaborate and full of priceless art, and the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica will take your breath away. We got lucky enough to encounter a Mass while we were in the basilica, and were able to take Communion there.

I guess my only wish would be to have a few peaceful hours to wander the holy grounds of Vatican City without all of the teenage tour groups (acting up, as teenagers do), aggravated staff members, and hordes of people. I know that is a lot to wish for, it's just a limited amount of space for the hundreds, maybe thousands, of people that visit each day. I am a practicing Catholic and I definitely appreciated the sacred nature of Vatican City, but I appreciate all of the beautiful, peaceful small churches we have encountered on this trip just as much.

However, out of the hundreds of people surrounding us at the Vatican, Roberto says he noticed one family that made him realize how small the world really is... Ava, the little Australian girl from our train ride from Barcelona to France, and her mother were looking at some of the tapestries on the wall in one of the galleries. I didn't see them, and Roberto says it was so crowded and we were so rushed to get to the Sistine Chapel that he didn't go over to say hello. I hope they've enjoyed their stay in Rome as much as we have.

After the Storm

We just had to stop for a photograph of this beautiful Tuscan walled hill town on our way to Rome. The storm was rolling in - or out, we couldn't tell - just as we came upon it. Beautiful. We don't even remember which village this is.

Quick Stop in Siena

I may have missed its famous Palio when I was in Italy in August 2001, but I wasn't going to miss seeing Siena on this trip. REALLY quick stop, too quick... we basically parked the car and ran through the streets to see Siena's fabled Piazza del Campo. The thunderstorm that started pouring on us as we left San Gimignano was right on our heels, and we needed to get to Rome in time to return the rental car!

We only got to spend about five minutes in the beautiful piazza... next time it will be more.

San Gimignano - a Little Gem!

We had always planned to make a few stops through Tuscany on our drive from Florence to Rome, but we'd never really discussed where we wanted to go besides Siena. It just so happened that the people who shared our train car from France to Italy were American, let me perouse their Frommer's book, and highly recommended we visit a little town called San Gimignano.

I have to admit I had never heard of this picturesque medieval hilltop town until then, but it is well worth a trip! Where other Italian cities - though beautiful - have succumbed to modern-day amenities and now feature major paved thoroughfares, Internet cafes, and guys hawking fake Prada bags alongside every tourist attraction, seeing San Gimignano is like taking a step back into the 10th century. Although lots of chi-chi boutiques have moved into the bottom story of most of the village's buildings (and tons of tourists have discovered the place), the village has really been untouched by time. Many of its medieval towers still stand, the walls around the city are well-preserved, and the sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside are simply breathtaking. Not so romantic are its two torture museums, but they were pretty impressive in their own right.

We wanted to take the time to climb one of the city's towers to get an even better vantage point, but a storm was moving in and we had to run if we were going to stop in Siena as well!

Villa San Michele

We spent last Sunday morning (5/16) like good Catholics, surrounded by churches in Florence, but we wrapped up the evening in the hills above the city, in the small, exclusive community of Fiesole. Our destination was Villa San Michele, a haven of tranquility in the middle of the bustle and crowds.
We spent a couple of hours wandering the hotel's gardens and enjoyed a wonderful spread of snacks (a varied cheese plate, enormous caper berries, assorted nuts, breads, and the most exquisite sun-dried tomatoes I have ever eaten in my life), along with a couple of glasses of the local chianti. Our bill? US $90... we sure enjoyed those $30 glasses of wine! Totally worth it!

May Brings Business and Blooms

From the glittering Cannes Film Festival to the prestigious Formula One race in Monaco, there has been no shortage of tourism across southern Europe during our trip this May. Business is great for them!
My favorite things May brings here aren't man-made, although they probably help to draw plenty of tourists. The orange-red Tuscan poppies bobbing along roadsides and filling the rolling fields have been painted by the likes of Cezanne and Matisse, and have taken center stage in many a photograph taken around this time of year here. My photos are no different... I love them and even pressed a couple of them to take home with me!

Firenze, the Renaissance City

It's been almost nine years since I last visited Florence, or Firenze as the Italians say. Almost a decade, and the city is no less beautiful, classy, or jaw-dropping... if anything, its appeal has increased and I've gained so many more happy memories here.
The last time I visited with my friend Heather, we were on a backpacking adventure, touring the entire country (and managing to squeeze in one Greek island at the end - Corfu). Needless to say, we walked the entire city dragging huge bags, so we were in no condition to climb the Duomo or the adjacent 414-step campanile next to it. Roberto and I did both this time... no need for me to do my squats for DAYS!!! And the views of Florence from atop the tower and the Duomo can't be beat.
This time we took in both the Uffizi and l'Accademia galleries... I think we only did l'Accademia last time to visit that famous Goliath-slayer, Michelangelo's David. I behaved myself this time, not taking the the camera out at either gallery... when I was 21 I snapped surreptitious pictures, getting scolded in front of the David but not caring. Now I realize how bothersome it was and I have committed the art to memory.
We found a great little Italian restaurant, La Beppa Fioraia, that we had dinner at twice. The first night I had a wonderful fresh fettuccine with sun-dried tomatoes and bacon, and Roberto had a thick steak with truffle sauce. The second night we both had pasta dishes... mine was ravioli with lard and artichokes. Lunch was typically at Roberto's favorite sandwich shop that he discovered in 2005... I Due Fratellini. This is the best deal in town and is always packed. I loved the cured meat, goat cheese, and arugula sandwich. Another American group in front of us on line the first day told us they'd seen it on the Travel Channel, so I guess the word is out!
Other than that - excellent shopping... bought a new ring on the Pont de Vecchio and a new leather purse at the Mercato di San Lorenzo, although I don't recommend the market. The buckle on my bag has already broken. Oh well, I'll buy new buckles and it will be fine.
Next we're on to Rome, the last stop on our tour, driving through beautiful Tuscany and Umbria on the way!!!

Day Trip to Monaco

Although last night's forecast predicted rain all day, we woke up to a beautiful (although slightly overcast) morning. The Mediterranean region is experiencing unseasonably cool weather this May - unseasonable meaning low 60's in the morning and highs around 70, but it's perfect weather for walking long distances and hiking around to explore new cities!

After a delicious breakfast of a caramel and salted butter crepe and cafe au lait (me) and a ham-and-cheese crepe and cafe au lait (Roberto), we took the little rented Reynault Megane out for another adventure... to Monaco! We have driven this car all the way across southern France on only a half-tank! Granted, it's a diesel, but it is still impressively economical.

Monaco is only 17 kilometers from Nice, and we drove through some achingly beautiful cliffside villages along the way. Think terra cotta-roofed villas hugging the mountainsides, plunging down to peaceful, bobbing yacht-filled aquamarine bays below. It was gorgeous and we stopped for plenty of photo ops along the way.

As we cruised into Monaco (following dozens of Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Maseratis, etc... or rather getting blown away by them... the Megane may be economical but it sure isn't fast) we began to notice lots of signs for their annual Formula One Grand Prix. I had not thought the glitzy race happened until late May, but no, it's going on right now! Luckily we got there around 10 AM and beat the crowd, so there was actually parking in some of the garages.

The Formula One race is almost as star-studded as the Cannes Film Festival, and since the two events coincided this year I'm sure there was cross-attendance. Anyway, it was pretty exciting to follow the whine of the cars down to the center of Monaco (the whine became a ROAR when we got up next to the casino, where they were racing around a specially-constructed track). We couldn't get into the race itself without paying beaucoup bucks, which we chose not to do. We got quick glimpses of the cars whizzing past any section of the chain-link fence that wasn't covered with metal (to keep the peasants from viewing the race without paying dearly for it), and that was enough for us. It was really exhilarating!

I wish we could have seen the Monte Carlo Casino, but it was blocked off for the race. That was all right, because we could still walk up to the beautiful Palais du Prince, where the royal Grimaldi family reigns. There was another viewing area where we could have seen the Grand Prix from up on the cliff adjacent to the palace, but that too was blocked off. The gorgeous view on the other side of the cliff was open, though, and here we had learned to show people how to use our camera before we asked them to take our picture!

Walking around atop the cliff was pretty fantastic... we saw the Cathedrale-du-Monaco, the 1875 Romanesque-Byzantine church where Grace Kelly and Prince Ranier III were married, and the pastel-colored governmental buildings and embassies. There were probably some other private residences mixed in too. The whole clifftop is surrounded by manicured gardens, filled with exotic blooms, fragrant hedges, and pristine sculptures.

All in all, we dedicated about a half-day to Monaco between driving and strolling. Totally worth it... it was beautiful and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Then it was back to Nice, which I have really decided has been my favorite place we've stayed. I like that there is so much to do here and that this is such a great jumping-off point to other surrounding cities on the Cote d'Azur. We dropped off the Megane since we won't be able to take it across the border to Italy tomorrow, enjoyed a late lunch at Pasta Basta and then walked around Vieux Nice some more. We stumbled upon the Saturday evening service at the baroque Cathedrale Ste-Reparate, which we sat in on for a little bit, picked up some delicious little biscuits and a cinnamon caramel square at a little candy shop called La Cure Gormande, and had a drink at Bar Mori on rue Massena. My drink was called the "Monaco"... beer mixed with lemonade and grenadine... pretty fitting!

For dinner, we enjoyed escargots, chopped veal kidneys in mustard sauce (me) and sea bass (Roberto) at Franchin restaurant. The restaurant was perfectly situated right across the street from our hotel, and everything was absolutely delicious.

Tomorrow we're off to Italy! Our train leaves around 8:30 AM and we'll pick up another rental car in Genova. Then we'll drive through Tuscany to stay in Florence for three nights... week 2 of our honeymoon is officially here!

This is What We Get...

... for handing our camera over to someone else to take a picture of us without explaining to her how to use it! Oh well, at least you can see some of beautiful Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Aix-en-Provence and the Cote d'Azur Drive

We spent our last night in Aix yesterday, Thursday, May 13th. We intended to get up and drive to Avignon to see the Palais des Papes, but decided to simply relax and spend the day in Aix instead. We got some laundry done, shopped (Roberto got some great new Diesel sneakers), and ate dinner at Chez Charlotte, which was fantastic. I had an incredibly fresh gazpacho and vegetable plate with quiche and salad, and Roberto had a steak. The one hiccup was when I told him he was ordering a beef appetizer and it ended up being a poached egg in a sour cream soup (our waiter didn't speak English), and with the handwritten menu I thought l'oeuf (egg) said boeuf (beef). It was delicious anyway!
We woke up early this morning to drive along the Cote d'Azur to our last stop in France, Nice. What a gorgeous trip! We traveled through St. Tropez, St. Raphael, St. Maxime, and Cannes, which is in the midst of its world-famous film festival right now. The traffic was so congested that it took over an hour to get 1 km through town, but I thought it was worth it! We saw the red carpet where the stars walk, lots of self-important people with badges strutting around, and the paparazzi camped outside the glitziest hotels. At one point we heard screaming and everyone outside the Martinez Hotel started snapping pictures furiously, but we couldn't see who they were taking pictures of. We couldn't park the car, so Roberto just drove inch by inch while I jumped out here and there to take photos. Some I took from the car's window. It was neat!
After fighting lots of traffic along the way, we arrived here in Nice, which I was expecting to be a little dirty from reading its Lonely Planet description. I am SO pleasantly surprised, though! It's clean, walkable, and fun. We had an amazing Italian dinner at Pasta Basta in the Old City, then walked along Promenade des Anglais for a little sightseeing. Tomorrow morning we're headed to Monaco, then back to nice for a little more sightseeing and shopping!

Aix-en-Provence --- Day One

After a very scenic train ride across the Spanish-French border yesterday, we have made our way to Aix-en-Provence!
The train was... how should I put it... very retro. Lots of browns and tans, 1960's decor, heavy striped curtains on the windows, but the seats reclined much further than plane seats so we were comfortable. We almost didn't want to sleep though, we were afraid of missing some of the beautiful landscape we rode through - castles, French marshlands, ancient villages, cliffs leading to the dark aqua sea, and acres upon acres of vineyards with rolling hilly backdrops. We befriended a little 18-month-old Australian girl, Ava, and her parents (I have no idea how they were travelling with such a young child, but she was surprisingly well-behaved!)
Picking up the rental car in Montpellier was a little bit of an adventure. GPS wasn't available, so we mapped out our route to Aix-en-Provence and we actually got here with very little problems! The countryside along the way is gorgeous... lots of the classic ochre-colored homes with bright blue shutters, surrounded by farmland.













Aix is different than I pictured it to be, it's much busier with lots of foot traffic and tons of chic little boutiques. The university here dates from 1409, so it has a huge student population and they don't seem to be very respectful of the history of the place (think beer cans strewn all over the street, cigarette butts, etc.), but I love the little winding alleyways and the beautiful old fountains. You can just walk for hours around here and find all kinds of cool stuff... last night Roberto and I found a little shop that sold only "macarons", little cakes with cream in the middle in all kinds of funky flavors. He got a chocolate caramel and a pistachio, and I got a peach-champagne and a blueberry-violet. Delicious! Only in a place like Aix, very funky and walkable, could a shop like this survive. I love it.
We ate dinner at a highly recommended (by Lonely Planet) little restaurant with only about 8 tables called Le Petit Verdot. Everyone in there was French, and thank goodness we stopped by early to make a reservation for when the place opened for dinner at 7. While we were eating, at least 4 tables got turned away because they didn't have reservations! We had the most fantastic fois gras with orange gelatin and baby arugula, and Roberto got sliced "canard" (duck). I got braised lamb. We had a fantastic bottle of Bordeaux that went perfectly with the meal.
I think most restaurants here are like Le Petit Verdot in that you have to make a reservation before they open for dinner or you don't get in... at least the ones that are worth it. Tonight we're hoping to go to a little bistro called Charlotte, another that's highly recommended by our book.

Last Full Day in Barcelona

We have officially just eaten the best paella I have ever had, at Restaurante Santiaguino near our hotel (Hotel U232 in the LEixample district). Delicious! This was a small little mom-and-pop type place that didn´t even open for dinner until 8 o´clock at night and we were the only diners there until about nine. We got there right at eight, being the American tourists we are, and as we were eating our dessert (a lovely little dream of tiny wild strawberries - fresitas, our waitress called them - and whipped fresh cream with sugar) the locals started pouring in for their usual late dinner. A couple of the diners knew each other, it was that kind of a place. Anyway, the food was incredible... pan-fried squid and a paella chock-full of fresh seafood, wonderful!
Earlier today we just did some more walking around Barceloneta´s beaches and we explored the Barri Gotic district. There was a nice breeze at the beach and the water is a gorgeous shade of aqua... it´s the Mediterranean, what can I expect? There are lots of boardwalk-type areas around Barceloneta for people to ride bikes, take a stroll, and walk their dogs (mostly without leashes... I don´t think there is a leash law in this country), and I can picture it being a pretty wild place in the summertime.
I loved the Barri Gotic area... the part of the city that dates back to medieval times. We took lots of pictures of Barcelona´s Cathedral, and it was amazing to walk around some of the ancient buildings in the area and see what used to be a moat around them. It always blows my mind to see how a more modern city has sprung up around structures from the 1500´s. Nowadays Barri Gotic is home to lots of trendy little boutiques and shops, all along its warren of narrow, historic alleyways. I loved it.
Tomorrow we´re off to Provence! Can´t wait...